There is a reason.......

you see two links to Will's post today. It is worth your time to read it.









http://willgadd.com/ice-breaks-dont-be-in-the-way-of-it-as-it-falls/

Blue Ice Yeti 45 review

Reviewed by Jerry Johnson (one of my very first climbing mates)




Here is what I really like about the Blue Ice Yeti 45 –
throw anything in it and don’t worry about screws poking out or crampons
tearing through. Frankly, I am tired of the ultra light pack I need to watch
around sharp implements, branches during the inevitable bushwhack, or ski
edges. There will no need to constantly
patch this pack with Aqua Seal and a hodgepodge of Cordura scraps.












































Readers of this blog are well acquainted with Blue Ice. They
build a few specialized products for the alpine world. I already use the Boa
leash and the 27 liter Warthog. The Yeti is their solution to the need for a
pack for bigger loads up to overnight. Like
any well designed pack it carries just fine and has the usual features we like.
Two compression straps, a waterproof zipper down the front for quick access to
spare gloves (something I am learning to appreciate with use), and an
adequately padded, and removable, hip belt with a accessory pocket. Most packs nowadays share these and additional
features. The design crew for the Yeti did a couple things with these features
I really appreciate.



The lid is, of course, removable via four Fast Tex style
nylon buckles made by Duraflex. A gripe I always seem to have in these systems
is that the lid doesn’t cinch down as tight over the pack as I would like. Most
of the time when I have a partially loaded pack I just tuck the lid insight and
cinch it shut but, for moderate loads when you use the lid as intended, most
lids fit sloppy at the back, flop around and don’t really seal all that well.
On the Yeti, they sewed the rear lid buckles slightly further down the back so
the lid fits as it should. Mine didn’t come with two zipper slides on the main
pocket but they should in future production runs.





Speaking of strappage. The pack came with two long webbing
straps for attaching crampons or whatever. Many packs have some daisy chained
webbing that works well enough but involve a lot of extra sewing and so
expense. The strap tie on points on the Yeti are stellar. The base is a thin
neoprene impregnated nylon with well formed loops. Threading webbing or a Voile
strap is a no brainer and clearly they are strong enough for haul loops if
needed. Here is a request for Blue Ice – make straps out of the neoprene
material with strong steel buckles. They would replace the old Beck Crampon
Straps we used in the 70’s and still in use as accessory straps today. I’d buy
them. And one other thing – I wish pack manufacturers would sew straps with a
little extra on the ends. I seem to always strain compression straps to their
full extent and a little extra webbing to grab on to would be very cool.





Reflecting the alpine roots, the pack has two small gear
loops on the pack straps. I didn’t like them. They make the pack harder to get
in and out of and I don’t quite see the point. I sometimes climb with a bandoleer
system but these just seem to get in the way and make rack changeovers just
that much more complicated. Others may feel differently and should give them a
go. There are gear loops inside the pack but again, I don’t see the need. I
hadn’t owned a pack with the new school axe system and was skeptical but they
work well with my Quarks – easy off/easy on.
Frame is a plastic sheet with two metal stays. I recently
swapped it out for a piece of foam and it seems to work just as well, offers a
bivi pad, and saves a few ounces. Again, it likely comes down to a personal
preference or need.




Blue Ice gear is bomber – really well sewn and finished. My
only real gripe is that the black color makes it hard to see in the pack in dim
light. Not a deal breaker by any means.

Union

Venus and the Moon close to each other last night.

Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver

Someone had this crazy idea to climb Mt. Rainier on the 4th of July to watch the fireworks from the top. It might have worked, except it ended up being cloudy on the west side of the state!



We started out that morning and headed up the well worn, normally crowded, DC route. By the time we got above Camp Muir, all the climbers for that day had already come down. We had the entire upper mountain to ourselves! The Ingraham Glacier, Ingraham Flats and Disappointment Cleaver.



David on the nose of DC. Cadaver Gap and Mt. Adams in the distance.



David holding the hand line on the big traverse over to Gibraltar Rock.



David in the crater on the top of Mt. Rainier.



Doug in the crater.







The shadow of Rainier hitting some low clouds at sunset. It was really strange and pleasant to climb that route and not see any climbers above high camp. We did see a few distant fireworks in the Yakima area on our way down. It didn't turn out the way we had hoped, but it was still a great day to try something new on our favorite mountain!

Quick coffee in quiet Vrijthof

I like my terrace view: The Vrijthof -- Sint Janskerk, Sint Servaasbasiliek and the Hoofdwacht.




Nowadays I drive to all 4 corners of the
Netherlands. Each week I burn between 700 and 1000+ kilometres and that makes
me the queen of the road =)





Last week I was in Maastricht which is
200+ kilometres from Amsterdam. Maastricht is located at the southern tip of the Netherlands bordering Germany and Belgium. I have a business partner here and we finished
the meeting earlier than expected. I saw that I have a few
missed calls, as well as I can see continuous emails coming in to my phone so I decided to work a bit before driving back to the Randstad. A quick swing by at Vrijthof(the main big square of Maastricht)for some coffee while I check and answer my emails and call back people would be the best scenario.




While sitting at a café terrace on
Vrijthof and sipping my coffee it dawned on me that I really liked my job. Even if it is stressful.
Even if sometimes I feel the heavy weight of the responsibility. Even if I have to juggle, find out, search and justify things on my own.




Vrijthof before 12 noon is very quiet. I
have never seen Maastricht this still. However, I noticed people trickling into the square when I left about half past 12. Many of them with cameras hanging from their necks.



It was nice to have seen the quieter side of Maastricht.

CAMP Contest Ski Mountaineering Race Suit review

The CAMP "Contest" Ski Mountaineering Race Suit..not racing.


http://www.camp-usa.com/products/backcountry-ski/ski-mountaineering-suit-1594.asp



Yep, Lycraagain!



If nothing else, reading Cold Thistle will give you an idea thatthe envelope can be pushed on how modern high tech gear is supposed to be used and where you might find a place for some of it in your own clothing and hardware systems. Much of it can be used far outside the original design parameters.



Point in case is skimo racing gear like this CAMP suit or some of the reviews coming up in the future of long distance running gear.



Let me clear up any false impression that I might have unintentionally lefthere on CT in the past. I am not askimo racer or abike racer. I have done races in both venues. But if you are thinking I am competitive, I am not. I push hard and I race...but only against myself. I am how ever, an alpinist. Which I consider in my ownegotistical away, better than a mountaineer. Obviously I write a alpine climbing blog. So I think my opinions are worth sharing with the world ;) Your mileage may, very well, vary :)



Which brings us back to Lycra and eventually, if you have a little patience, to the CAMP skimo racing suit pictured above and other suits and clothinglike it.






Ever felt like you needed to climb in just your base layers on a hot day on the glacier?









Fact is, Lycra is better looking and given the right fabric blend and specific pattern, not a bad option on hard rock or a hot glacier.



Clearly Lycra is not the best option in clothing for ever situation in the mountains. In the recent past I have used Lycraas a base layer, a light insulation layer and a wind shell depending on what has been required and the current environment. Some times all three on the same trip.



As I mentioned in the previous post on Lycra this last week had been one of the most comfortable ski trips I have done. Temps ranged from around 25Fas the sun came upto as 80F by mid afternoon. in bright sun out of the wind. It was a wide range of temperatures. Only above 11Krequired the addition of a Patagonia Micro D pullover when I was stopped. Impressive IMO.

If you needed more in the wind a Camp Flash pull over would do morenicely enough.











Above is another versatile ski rig that is mostly Lycra with a Patagnia Piton Hoody and a Dynafit Movement pant.



Micro D is here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//04/patagonia-micro-d-14-zip-synchilla.html



Flash is here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//02/it-is-all-same.html



For base layers under this suit I used a tech short sleeved shirt and tech briefs. Not much between you and the environment. That I painfully realised the first time I took a spill on the pavementhard snow because I hadn't brought ski crampons.



Same basic set up Brian used on his c2c speed run up the Gib Chute but in a Crazy Idea suit.









It is worth paying attention to what is being worn and why.



Check out the usual suspects (the guys out doing it) on the web. More here on skimo specific clothing:



http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com//11/backcountry-ski-clothing-systems-what.html



http://www.getstrongergolonger.com/journal//7/17/grand-teton-speed-project-update-weight-matters.html



Look closely at what they are using on their own back country missions.



So why am I about to start raving about a once piece suit?



After all, one piece suits are notorious to ventilate and control your temperature. Too hot generally by design or too cold in only Lycra because the material doesn't offer enough insulation. And then how do you ventilate and breath in a once piece suit? Hard to head the call of nature in as well.



I've used well designed one piece suits often in my climbing career to good effect. All the way back to early Goretex versions in 1977. But never in such an aerobic situation.







But never ata really high level of physical out put. Enter Lycra one piece suits fitted correctly and with the additional insulation and breathable material required. It all starts to make sense.



Stuff a bunch of food/skins/gear into a kangaroo style pocket system (as they have above or below) and you profile will look funky and fat no matter how skinny you are...or aren't. Get over it.









The one and only time (a local ski mo race) I have ever had sweat running down my forehead and snow blowing hard enough to blind me while at the same time freezing on my outer layer all at the same time, I was in Lycra. And I was comfortable. As long as I didn';t have to stop!



The Flat Bellied Stallion?



The jokes never end and the questions don't stop. Takes so confidence to wear Lycra at any age in any style. It generally isn't flattering to the human form. Unless of course your human form is what the current society norm considers attractive.



Here are twoclassic views and the casual observation.








Big gut! This guy shouldn't be in Lycra.







Big gut! This guy shouldn't be climbing in Lycra either.


Truth is I have had a big gut in the past. No reason to deny it. But for the most part, chemo and radiation during Cancer treatment eliminated it. Damn near have abs in both these pictures an no spare tire there. I had friends comment on the pictures from this winter in the Dynafit Movement pant and the Patagonia Piton Hoody. And now in the Camp Speed suit. No gut hanging out there just extra gear and fabric no matter what the first impression was. Not Gym Jones fit either. If you spend your life worrying about what people think you'll likely miss most of a well lived life.



I take my time with pictures generally. Simply to help meget my point across. But I am at least as vain as the next guy (likely more) when it comes to how I look and am perceived by others.



Belowis a picture looking down across my absfrom above, while wearingthe CAMP Contest suit. The Cliff Bar Shot Block that is sticking out is just the tip of the iceberg. I have 10 Gu packets, 4 Shot Blocks, sun screen, lip balm and my freakin camerastored in the first layer of pockets inside my suit. It may look a little funky but if you are trying to stay up on the calories and keep moving at the same time you have to work on a system to do so. Some use gel flasks. Right now I am using, and really like, the simplicity of the pocket system the Contest suit offers. You will have a "spare tire" fully loaded, butwith the end result of easy access to your fuel and other essentials while moving.



The suitis easy to use no matter what you might think of the aesthetics of sucha garment.



I know what I look like in and out of Lycra. It isn't always a fashion show. But it is always about how fast and how far can you go if you are pushing yourself and your gear.














Looking down at my boots. I can stomach a "spare tire" for the easy access.







The "junk" in a a well designedskimo suit. My Gels and Shot Blocks are in the "outside pouch" Accessed through the zipper via either the top or bottom slider. There is another layer of pockets big enough to take the smaller race skins behind this "pouch". And finally a transceiver pocket behind all of them.Four pockets total inside the suit.




There is also a separate pee zipper below all the pouch pockets.




On the outside there is a small zippered breast pocket and two huge, elastic closed chest pockets intended for short term skin storage. I used them for used Gu wrappers, gloves andmy camera on this trip. The current colors may be not all that flattering foryou physical profile but this suit reallyworks as advertised if not even better!




I set a several decade old PB using this rig on Rainier recently. You might not want to be too critical on first impressions.


More interesting to me is that not only was I never passed on the uphill (which is extremely unusual) I actually passed a lot of folks both going up and coming down. Much of that"speed"was the difference in weight of my entire kit. But it also had as much to do with how capable my clothing was on the extreme ends of both hot and cold.



If it makes thatbig difference for me...you can only imagine the difference it might make for you. I write a blog but I am no fitness animal in the mtns. Far from it. When I can easily drop anyone else on the trail I am more than happy.



I had one goal using this suit. And that wasto climb with the least amount of effort. If I can turn Rainier into a half day's effort you likely can do even more with similar gear.



No hood on this suit. Which I can't really applaud for the application but like much better than with a hood. Even though no question I would want and use a hood if the conditions required it. I am admittedly not a skimo "racer" although I like being part of them. For me the majority of the time a hood isn't required or needed. So I am glad to see a finished product covered without the hood.






The stand-up collar is my favorite.


The collar is a high stand up version with plenty of coverage on the neck. My actual preference over a hood. Easy enough to add a thicker head band or hat. Short of really nasty weather my preference to dump excess heat is through my head and neck first.



Speaking of dumping heat. Both the under arms, which features tiny holes in the fabric.






under arm vents




And the back panel, via a mess panel are there to dump excess heat on the uphill and work exceptionally well imo.






The entire black backpanel is open weave nylon mess. Directly under your pack which really helps me control my body temperature on the uphill. And easily protected with even a light wind shell or my favorite Patagonia Micro D pull over.


Funny how the good clothing works so easily in a "systems" approach over a broad spectrum of conditions and clothing choices. The Micro D or a simple base layer is one of the basics for me skiing, especially on the down side of the ski track.







As you can see from the length of this blog post there is a lot involved in the features of these race suits. And for the asking price of $400 per suit there should be. But I originally thought $1000 was a lot of money for a TLT boot and now I think the price is a steal for the weight and performance involved. Same on a "race" suit. Like the TLT P the suit is another piece of highly technical gear I will use almost anywhere in the mountain now if a ski boot is involved and I want to eat right on the effort.










Finally. One of the things that make or break a pair of pants for me BC and touring is the cuff. Movement pant and the Dynafit buckle system is a serious PIA to me. I like simple. Simple because I want the boot easy to get at and easy to adjust. But I also don't want snow in my boot. All of which is a problem for a TLT user. Or at least in my experience it is. For races to date I've used simple tights. Easier to hit the top buckle latch and not deal with Velcro/ cutting holes in one's pants and what to do with the buckles when open. The Movement pant is decent. But not fast to hit the hole in the pant leg and a true bitch to get on and off.No my favorite thing to use when in a hurry. So I have used several simple soft shells. Notably the Arcteryx Gamma LT pant as well.







CAMP suit is simply brilliant on those lines. The buckle slips in and out via a open and reinforced seam. It is the very best method I have seen yet to utilise the TLT buckle system. I was forced to put one small hole forthe cuff buckle latch to go through and lock the boot in down hill mode.. If I am not in a hurry, easy enough to use and latch/unlatchin the field. Durable and a slick system to keep snow and crap out of your boots with the boots wide open in walk mode.








Simple round hole I put in with a wood burner. Lycra is reinforced at the point and a soldering iron seems an obvious tool for the choice.







CAMP isn't the only one making race suits. Or the least expensive. I've not used any thing else for asimilar purpose other than the two piece Dynafit system they made for the recreational racer in previous winters. TheDynafit Movement pants and jacketsare really good imo. I use them both.



But the once piece suits are a big step up in performance. There is a reason they call them "race" suits. But the label doesn't mean they are only good on race day,












Dynafit Movement Pant and jacket











The CAMP Contest Race Suit










CONTEST SKI MOUNTAINEERING RACE SUIT


• Competitive Ski Mountaineering

• Constructed from durable, lightweight Lycra and mesh panels

• Double layers on the knees for warmth and durability

• Dedicated external pockets for fast access to skins and gels

• Internal pocket for avalanche transceiver

• Kevlar reinforced cuffs with reinforced elastic stirrups

• Dedicated slots for back boot buckles are compatible with all boot models

• Full chest zipper for temperature regulation and quick-zip for emergency evacuations
Holy smokes Batman! The new Contest ski mountaineering suit is optimized for competitive ski mountaineering like super suits are designed to combat villains and protect the victors. Lycra construction is lightweight and breathable and the mesh backing helps with temperature regulation even during the fastest competitions. Every detail has been tended to with dedicated skin pockets on the chest positioned at an angle that makes getting skins in and out fluid and natural, a dedicated external pocket for gels, an internal pocket for a transceiver, full-length chest zipper, stirrups, and back cuff slots designed to be compatible with all boot models. Suits like the Contest have become so perfectly optimized that many racers now wear their suits as a base layer even on casual back country days.

SPECS
ID: 1519
Sizes: S - M - L - XL
Weight (M): 480 g, oz
$399.95 USD





More here on the skimo race suits I do know a little about.



http://skitrab.com/en-no/c-22-clothing/49-dragon-track-suit-man.html




http://www.crazyidea.it/index.php/products/catalogo/undefined/undefined/race/page:4

http://www.dynafit.com/product/first-layer/dy-speed-up-race-suit-l





Bottom line? If you really want to preform better in the mountains, this is speed you can buy. People need to simply get over their aversion to Lycra based sportswear. Lycra isn't a right, it is a privilege to wear. But the privilege is not for the typical reasons most consider before sliding Lycra on or avoiding it in the store. It is a privilege to be able to go fast, safelyin the mountains. Any gear that helps you do that is a very good gear.



I have to remind myself of that fact as well, every time I pull my Lycraout of the gear room.

The use might be skiing, or a run, a Tri or a bike ride. Either way using Lycra is always worth the extra effort.

How she got her name

Snapping Turtle (Chelydra serpentina)

Ms. Snappy was in search of a place to lay her eggs, when she was detained by a barking dog and a human with a blog.



The business end, a.k.a. how she got her name.



The other end. The gait reminds me of a toddler.

If you've got your sound turned on, you can hear an Eastern Bluebird (Sialia sialis) in the background of both videos.

Small Wheel Shoppers: Wren and Bobbin

In my recent post about choosing a transportation bicycle one topic discussed in the comments was the available options for those who live in walkup apartments yet want a fully equipped upright step-through transportation bicycle. The thing about transportation bikes is that they tend to be on the large and heavy side, thus inconvenient for hauling up and down several flights of stairs on a daily basis - especially for those without a lot of upper body strength. The solution some might consider is a small wheeled bike. Not necessarily a folding bike, but what in England was at one time called a "shopper" - a bicycle with small wheels and a sturdy frame designed to withstand weight, equipped with fenders, racks and baskets. The Raleigh Twenty was probably the most popular of these and now there are two new bikes from England that channel its features. I rode them briefly at Adeline Adelinewhen I visited New York.






One of these is theWren bicycle shown here. Stiff cromoly frame, 20" wheels with wide city tires, 3-speed hub, swept back handlebars, adjustable saddle height, fenders and front and rear racks with optional enormous wicker basket.






The front rack is attached to the frame at three separate points. It does not move when the wheel moves and it sits low to the ground, which stabilises the weight and does not noticeably impact handling.





With the combination of front and rear rack, this bicycle can carry as much weight as a full sized transportation bike, and the frame is built to withstand that. But the bike itself is not heavy when compared to a full sized upright step-through, and being small it is quite maneuverable through tight spaces. Carrying it up and down the stairs is no problem. The low standover provides the same benefits as a full sized step-through frame. And the short horizontal bar above the bottom bracket functions as a convenient handle for picking up the bike.






While I was not able to get outdoor shots of the Bobbin Shopper, I did ride it briefly. The frame bears a strong resemblance the original Raleigh Twenty, but is lighter with tubing that is not as heavy-duty. Like the Wren, the Bobbin Shopper is equipped with 20" wheels, a 3-speed hub, fenders, a rear rack and an optional front basket. Unlike the Wren, the front brake is a caliper rather than a hub brake, there is a plastic saddle in place of the Brooks, and the handlebars are not swept back. The unicrown fork differs from the lugged crown fork on the Wren.






The Bobbin Shopper's frame is not designed to carry quite as much weight as the Wren and the craftsmanship is not on the same level, but these things are reflected very fairly in the price difference: The Wren retails for $1,150, whereas the Bobbin Shopper is priced at $550.






At these different price points, the basic idea behind the bikes is the same: small wheels,simple frame design, low stand-over, easy to carry,rack in the rear, optional basket in the front, hub gears. Both bicycles are made in Taiwan. And both bicycles weigh around 30lb, depending on how you set them up. One thing I wish is that each manufacturer offered an optional dynamo lighting package and it's a pity they do not.






Having ridden each bicycle briefly, my impressions are not extensive, but I'll share them such as they are: The Wren is undoubtedly a smoother, more luxurious ride. It is simply a higher quality build. But it also felt a little peculiar in both fit and handling and took some getting used to. The frame is very long and I felt quite stretched out and leaned over even with the upright handlebars. The Wren's handling seems optimised for a front load and with the basket empty it took me a bit to get used to it. The Bobbin's fit is more standard and the handling was more intuitive for me on first try. I do not feel that the small wheels are a limitation on either bicycle for city riding. And both bikes felt delightfully maneuverable. For those choosing between the two bikes, I would say it comes down to price point and fit preferences.




Not being folding bikes obviously means that neither bicycle can be made more compact than it already is, save for lowering the saddle. But one advantage of the non-folder is that the bike can be locked up outdoors in the city just as easily as full-sized bikes, whereas folding bicycles can be tricky to leave outside securely. I am a fan of this breed of bicycles and am glad more of them are emerging. What are your thoughts regarding non-folding small wheeled "shoppers"?