Fort Mackinac

Fort Mackinac was a military outpost garrisoned from the late 18th century to the late 19th century on Mackinac Island in the U.S. state of Michigan. Built by the British during the American Revolutionary War to control the strategic Straits of Mackinac between Lake Michigan and Lake Huron (and by extension the fur trade on the Great Lakes), it was not relinquished by the British until fifteen years after American independence. It later became the scene of two strategic battles for control of the Great Lakes during the War of 1812. During most of the 19th century, it served as an outpost of the United States Army. Closed in 1895, the fort is now a museum on the grounds of Mackinac Island State Park and has been designated a National Historic Landmark.

Officially autumn

I was on the road today to Venlo, a city in the south of the Netherlands by the German border. On the A12 highway in Gelderland near Wageningen I saw lovely colours of autumn.

This is only a small part of the beautiful autumn colours that I was able to snatch a foto. I was not quick enough to grab my camera that is in my bag.

My skirt:

Believe me, it is actually not so bad when I stand up.

More on leashless gloves

My Outdoor Research, Verts, after 50+ pitches of water ice and dbl rope rappels. Seams, material and leather palms still intact and still good to go after some literally smoking raps on thin, twin ropes.







I keep being reminded how a really lwt, breathable and not water proof glove like the OR Vert performed this winter on Canadian ice. The longer climb I did where the gloves where soaked through and my boots filled with water while rapping down comes to mind. I was able to literally wring the gloves out twice on route and put them back on. As the sun went down I was prepared for the worse and ready to pull a dry pair of gloves out of the pack when I got a chance but half way down the decent I noticed the Vert gloves were warm and dry again. "Amazed", isn't too strong of word.

So may be being water proof isn't such a big deal in radically changing conditions and may be getting the gloves dried out while still in the field is even more important. For those that can remember back that far the wool Dachsteins come to mind as a mitt that never failed, no matter what the conditions were. They did breath and they were not water proof. They are a hard act to follow actually when I think back on it. Every water proof glove to date I've used just gets wet from my perspiration and have been very difficult to dry out. More food for thought for glove choices.

I have also found out recently that both OR and Mtn Hardware offer "lifetime" guarantees on their gloves. A guarantee I tested this week with Mtn Hardware. Money well spent on any of these gloves imo.

Here are two more models that I am now using and easily fit into my glove selection and my criteria from the previous post on leashless gloves.

"My list of features for a good glove?
Leather palms and fingers, Shoeller material in the glove body, nose wipe, medium to long, well tailored, wrist cuff. Both finger and cuff hangers and preferably a low profile velcro seal on the cuff and wrist. Or at least a better elastic draw cord arrangement than what is common in most everyone's design. Easy to turn inside out to dry....or at least easy to dry. Thin removable liners might even be better if you could minimise the bulk. And most importantly FLAT SEAMS on the bottom of the little finger and hopefully those seams on the side, not the bottom of the finger. Seams there, when climbing leashless, will make your life miserable in the extreme."

Either could easily become a favorite with the other three climbing gloves I am using. Mtn H's Torsion is certainly a best buy money wise if you buy into the non water proof glove idea.

They also fit my personal want list very closely, hitting every point except drying easily. But easy enough.

Mtn Hardware Torsion retails for $60. Little more insulation/bulk than the OR Vert and a much better cuff. More insulation means they are a little harder to dry out. A very nice glove.

Mtn H's spiel:
"Torsion Glove
A snug soft shell glove for alpine climbing. Articulated cut for excellent dexterity, with flatlock seams for a comfortable fit. Durable, water-resistant goatskin palm and fingers stand up to rock or ice.
Alpine Climbing / Mountaineering
Weight 3 oz. / 98 g.
Lining Brushed Tricot
Body Deflection™ Soft Shell
Palm Material Water-resistant Goatskin Leather
"

These are the OR Storm Tracker glove. $69 retail. Thin glove and maybe better dexterity than the Vert. Nice cuff length even with the added hassle of the zipper. A little steep price wise compared to the other lwts but these guys rock as a technical climbing glove. Durability my be a question so we'll see if that O.R. "INFINITE..guaranteed FOREVER works" :)

OR's spiel:
•Intended Usage: Versatile backcountry work glove for ultimate dexterity
Breathable/water-resistant WindStopper Soft Shell fabric; tricot lined
•Full leather palm
•MotionWrap AT construction for added dexterity
•Elasticized wrist chili
•Gusseted entry with locking zipper

From a deluxe girly ‘High Tea Lunch’ to a rowdy boy’s game of ‘Kart Racing’

High Tea has become so popular in the Netherlands that a lot of restaurants are now offering this on their menu, including the Tafelberg, a chic restaurant in Blaricum, ‘t Gooi.

Because its high tea, we had a lot of sweets, chocolates and sandwiches. We even had crème brulee. I didn’t take pictures of all the food. I was busy socialising =)

All photos taken by iPhone. Quality? Mwah.

This is the interior of Tafelberg restaurant. Picture taken from Tafelberg website. We sat upstairs and occupied 1 wing of the mezzanine floor.

Tafelberg is located on De Heide, a beautiful nature preserved area in Blaricum. I have read that there is a nice walking trail here where the buffalo look-alike Scottish Highlands goats roam freely. Oh, I want to see these cool long haired goats! I am bookmarking this place and will come back another time for a walk and Scottish Highlands goat sightseeing.

After the high tea lunch we all went back to our cars and drove to Coronel Kartracing in Huizen, also in ‘t Gooi for kart racing.

I was supposed to join in the kart racing competition but they ran out of SMALL jackets. I guess that saved my ass as I am not really into this kind of sport. I would not mind though but if there is an escape route I would gladly take it.

At any rate I was quite content to watch. We had 3 rounds and each round the participants go through an elimination.

Oh well, what a day. From a deluxe girly ‘high tea lunch’ to a rowdy boy’s game of ‘kart racing’.

Visit Period: December
Destination: Blaricum and Laren (Het Gooi), The Netherlands

Drop Bar Hand Positions: an Introduction

Riding a roadbike does not come naturally to everyone, and one particular source of frustration is the drop handlebars. I was frustrated by them too when I first started, and so I hope this illustrated introduction might be of some help. To preface, a couple of things to keep in mind: First, drop bars vary in shape. This post assumes that your bike is fitted with theflat ramp style of bars prevalent today - either the compact type found on most stock road/racing bikes, or the more classic style popular with the twine and shellack crowd (i.e. the Nitto Noodle, Grand Bois Maes, Velo Orange Course). I am also assuming that you are using contemporary"aero" style brake levers, with the brake cables hidden.Note that if you are dealing with a 1970s-80s roadbike (i.e. something like this), the shape of the original handlebars and brake levers will make some of the positions described here impossible. Not everyone agrees on which hand positions are best to use at which times, or even on what the positions are called. This write-up reflects my non-expert personal experiences, informed by local mentours.



Whether you are racing, touring or going on a leisurely ride, what makes drop handlebars special is the variety of hand positions they offer. I consider there to be 5 distinct positions available: The hoods, the hooks, the drops, the tops, and the ramps. Read on for a description of each.






1. The Hoods

The "hoods" position refers to keeping your hands on top of the rubbery brake hoods, wrapped around them firmly. I think it is fair to say that today this is widely considered to be the standard, neutral position for riding with drop bars.When done correctly, it is extremely ergonomic, distributes the cyclist's weight nicely, and affords optimal leverage for cycling at different speeds. It is also a position from which the brake levers are easily accessible. Some cyclists report that the hoods make them lean forward too much. If this is the case, consider changing your handlebar setup - perhaps raising the bars, getting a shorter stem, or getting compact handlebars (with less distance between stem and hoods). On a properly fitted bike the hoods should feel easy and natural to reach.





There is a number of ways to hold your hands on the hoods, and this is how I usually do it. The main thing is to actually grip them and not just rest you hands upon them.






There are also different ways to brake from the hoods, and this is how I prefer to do it. Squeezing the brake lever with only two fingers while leaving the rest wrapped around the bars/hoods themselves ensures that my hands won't fly off the handlebars if I go over a bump.




For those accustomed to upright handlebars, the hoods position on a drop bar bike can feel awkward and disconcerting at first and can require some practice to use comfortably. It took me a couple of weeks before I really "got" the hoods, but once I did it's been true love. It's the position I use the most no matter what kind of riding I do. And if you are planning to take part in formal paceline training rides, chances are they will expect you to use the hoods as the standard position - and may even insist that you do so.






2. The Hooks

While often the position shown here is referred to as the "drops," there are actually two distinct drops positions. To differentiate between them, this one is more specifically known as "the hooks." It involves holding on to the parts of the bars that curve outward, with the cyclist's hands directly behind the brake levers. It is a more aggressive and aerodynamic position that the hoods, which makes it especially useful when cycling downhill and attempting to fight wind/air resistance.






The brake levers should be easily reachable from the hooks position. Braking in this manner is more powerful than from the hoods, because it affords greater leverage. It is important to be aware of this, so as not to accidentally slam the brakes when riding at high speeds.





3. The Drops


To differentiate from the hooks, this is what I will call the "true drops" position. To what extent the two positions are distinct really depends on the style of handlebars used. On some types of contemporary drop bars, the curvature here is so dramatic that the positions are very different - the true drops being parallel to the ground and the hooks perpendicular. On other drop bars the curve is less defined and it's hard to tell where the hooks end and the drops begin. Either way, the crucial distinction for me is that you can reach the brakes from the hooks, but not from this lower section of the drops.




Both the hooks and the lower drops positions are quite aggressive, and for beginners the crouching posture they put you in can feel scary. While at this stage I am more or less fine riding in these positions, even now I am still not as confident as I could be. Riding downhill in close proximity to others, I sometimes chicken out and stay on the hoods, simply bending my elbows a whole lot to get myself low enough over the bars. In a pinch, that tactic will do - but mastering the hooks and drops is ultimately worth it and I continue to work on it.







4. The Tops

And now, the dreaded tops of the bars... My personal opinion is that the "tops" are bad news for beginners and are to be avoided until after you pick up some road cycling skills. Let me explain: Beginners who cannot use drop bars properly tend to hold their hands on the tops, because this reminds them of mountain bike handlebars and allows them to stay more upright than any of the other positions do. It feels safer. However, this is deeply problematic. First, you cannot reach the brakes from the tops. And if you are too scared to use the other positions, will you really be able to brake quickly and effectively when the situation calls for it? Probably not. Furthermore, drop bars are narrower than mountain bike handlebars, and holding the tops places the rider's hands too close to the stem - not the best position for controlling the bike. Nearly every time I see a beginner on a roadbike lose control of their bicycle, they are holding the tops.






That said, the tops do have their function. Some find this position helpful for climbing, as it opens up the chest and facilitates deep breathing. Also, when doing a long ride it's great to simply have it as yet another position for your restless hands. Personally, I almost never use the tops even in these circumstances, because my hands are uncomfortable. But not everyone has this issue.






5. The Ramps

Finally, there is the rather difficult-to-photograph position called the "ramps," and I have also heard it referred to as the "shoulders." Located between the hoods and the tops, it involves holding the corners of the top portion of the handlebars. In this position the rider is more upright than on the hoods, while maintaining more control of the bike and a more ergonomic wrist position than they would on the tops. I hold my hands in this manner mostly on long rides, for short stretches at a time, when I want to do something different or be more upright for a bit.






All these new positions can certainly be overwhelming. As far as a starting point, I suggest learning to use the hoods well first, then transitioning to learning the hooks/drops. If the pictures here are not enough to help you understand the positions and the braking, ask an experienced cyclist to show you in person and imitate them. I did this some time ago, and it was more helpful than any online tutorial I could have read.And for those riding vintage bikes with handlebars like these and having trouble using them, consider updating the bar setup. You cannot use the hoods with that style of handlebars and levers, and I wish someone told me that when I first struggled with vintage roadbikes 3 years ago.




While drop handlebars are easy and intuitive for some, for others it takes practice to get comfortable with the different positions. My suggestion is to not be intimidated and just keep practicing. If you ask me, it's worth it.

Morning Visitors

As I walk to work each morning, I'm amazed at the things I see in such a short distance. Different people, different animals, different rigs and different light each day. One of my favorite things to see is beginning to be a somewhat regular event around here. And it is something to have them visit right next to our RV.

They are so close, we give each other a Good Morning wave sometimes.

What a way to start the day! Even better than coffee!

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful! So beautiful in fact, I've been known to trip on the speed bumps because I'm watching them instead of the road.

I've got to go to work now, but I'll see you again soon! Living the life in beautiful Florida!

Shoot! Score! Patagonia!

Patagonia Knifeblade pullover and the PatagoniaAlpine Guide pant.






The original Knifeblade pullover was made from Polartec® Power Shield PRO®. The Alpine Guide pants are made from Polartec® Power Shield®. Great pants for dh skiing.Love them! My current favorite down hill skiing pant. But not as water resistant/proof as the Power Shield PRO® fabric. The pull over Knifeblade top is one of my all time favorite climbing shells. Good warm weather ski shell as well.



If the video linked below is correct the newest Knifeblade jacket and pants are both unlined Polartec® Power Shield PRO®. Even better I think for skiing or nasty, wetweather climbing. Undecided yet on the climbing end. Not because of thePower Shield PRO® fabricmind you. It is amazing. The cuff design is what worries me. Although the insulated Northwall pants of Polartec® Power Shield PRO® have been good in really cold, wet weather for skiing. Too much faff in the cuff for me as a climbing pant. Too bad as the insulatedmaterial is perfect for cold weather climbing I think.



Certainly a good alternative to the few Neoshell options available. Very happy to see someone take advantage of the fabric is the right context and now in an insulated (if you can still find them as the NW pant/jacket has been discontinued) and uninsulated version.



The entire line of Patagonia alpine climbing clothing has take a huge step forward in materials and patterns the last two seasons. These two look to bump the bar higher yet. Bravo!



Not been a huge fan of Patagonia in the recent past. Had been a fan a few decades ago and they are back going gangbusters with their newest alpine clothing. It may not be the best in every category. But as a long time Arcteryx fan it took a lot to bring me back and get me into Patagonia clothing. And Patagonia hasindeed done very well across the board in the Alpine line from what I own and have used..






Patagonia Mixed Guide Hoody




Colin Haley's recent comments:




http://www.thecleanestline.com/colin-haley/




"My motivation is simple and selfish. Often the very best Patagonia alpine products are discontinued after only one year on the market because they don't sell well enough. This is why some pieces which are now a cherished staple, such as the RI Hoody, were once discontinued."




I have more Patagonia in my gear closet currently that is being used than any other brand by a fair margin. That says a lot to me.


The pieces I really like for anything from down hill skiing to backcountry skiing and ice/alpine climbing. Mix and match as required. It is quite a collection for the intended purposes. And I haven't used everything available just what is listed here.



Capilene 2

Micro D pullover

R1 hoody

Piton hoody

Nano Puff pullover

Knife blade pull over

Mixed Guide hoody

Mixed Guide pant

Alpine Guide Pant

Northwall Jacket

NorthWall Pant



(edit: I had incorrectly listed the pant I really like and use as a lot, as the BC Guide Pant. When in fact I have been skiing all winter in the Alpine Guide pant.... Sorry about the confusion and I have edited the original content to reflect the reality of the Alpine Guideinstead of what I had only imagined I was using ;) Thanks for the clarification and corrections Travis!)



The Patagonia Simple Guide garments have to be one of the best clothing deals on the market for what we all do.



The newest Knifeblade garments here:











and another new one I think will be a big hit, the Nano Puff Hybrid.

Jeff Lowe's Metanoia

Jeff's list of accomplishments in the alpine could easily fill several books...OK...several more books. This project, like everything from Jeff's imagination should be spectacular.



More here:



http://jefflowemovie.com/





Dbl click the topo:







Here is a recent update from Mr. Lowe himself on the project, from Supertopo.com and reposted here with his permission.



I am very excited to see this project happening!





"Our plan from the beginning was to go over to Switzerland last winter and get helicopter footage of Ueli on the route, then come home and edit a teaser that would help us to raise more money to go back this winter to re-create some key scenes from my climb in the exact spots they occurred.



The weather was never good for Ueli to start up last winter, but we worked the Eiger and the surrounding peaks by helicopter and shot scenes with Ueli, Catherine and me that allowed us to cut a good teaser. Back home we also got key interviews with the Latok crew (thanks to Piton Ron!), and Malcolm Daly. We are currently raising money to go back late this coming winter, hopefully to capture Ueli on the second ascent, but definitely to do the re-creations from my climb. We still have a release date of autumn, .



We will have a major presence at the OR show in January. The OR folks feel this film, which documents my career from the 50's to the 2000's, also reflects the evolution of the outdoor industry itself, so they are helping to sponsor it. Very soon, the website, jefflowemovie.com, will have major new features and information and will be a good place to find out what's happening with the film. I will also try to do better to keep ST informed.



Ueli actually did make a start on Metanoia in October, but loose snow over compact slabs in the First Band below the Hinterstoisser Traverse caused a big fall, so he rightly came down to wait for better conditions. Understandably, Ueli does not want us to make a big deal out of his "second ascent", until he's actually done it. Considering all the elements that have to come together for a climb of Metanoia, together with Ueli's full-packed schedule of other projects more central to his own vision, we sre ready to cut versions of the story with or without a second ascent.



Werner, it's actually a bit of a stretch to claim many people have tried to repeat Metanoia, although that is what it says on the trailer. Over the years I've been asked for info on the route by about a dozen different climbers, many of them hard-core eastern European climbers for whom the sort of "suffering" required seems to be more palatable than for more pampered types. None of them reported much progress in even finding the route through the First Band. I've made certain Ueli knows it, though, and that's been proven by the fact that he got through the key pitch which is A4 followed by unprotected free climbing to the next possible belay. This pitch is directly behind where Toni Kurtz was hanging on the rope when he died, and the five pitches through the First Band were my tribute to the spirits of the Eiger Pioneers of the 1930's.



My decision to climb without bolts is one of the things that defines the Metanoia experience. It's really analogous to trying to find a bolt-free line up El Cap somewhere in the vicinity of the Nose: it ain't easy!



-Jello"

aka: Jeff Lowe

Hats and Scarves for Cold Weather Cycling: What to Look For

This Fall I've been sick a lot, so I am using the downtime to knit. After making a couple of skirts, I moved on to a special project: hats and scarves specifically designed to resist the cold and wind while cycling.



While it may seem that any hat and scarf should be sufficient for this, last winter I discovered that this wasn't so. Store-bought knits can be a mixed bag in terms of how well they work, even if they "look" warm and cozy. So while making my own, here are some criteria I've come up with that may help as you're winter shopping.



1. Adequate coverage



This may be obvious, but a hat is most effective if it covers your ears. It should also be tight enough around the opening so that it does not slide while cycling - especially if it's windy. For me, hats that are "slouchy" are often too loose and quickly slide off my ears - or off my head entirely - when I cycle. I solved this problem by making the openings on mine extra tight, and you can watch for that factor in store-bought hats as well.



As for scarves, they can often come loose and unravel, or at least slip in a way that exposes your throat to the wind while cycling. If you have found this to be a problem, consider getting what is called a cowl neck, or a neck warmer instead. This is basically a thick, knitted turtleneck, without a sweater attached to it. You slip it on over your head and tuck the bottom under the collar of your coat. Unlike a scarf, it stays put and provides adequate coverage - even when cycling against the wind.



2. 100% wool



Assuming that you are looking for knit hats and not forsportyhigh-tech fleece, pay close attention to the material. I have been amazed to discover just how much better 100% wool is at keeping out the chill than a blend that includes even a small percentage of cotton, acrylic, or other materials. It can be convincing to see a fluffy knit hat with fair isle patterns of reindeer on it - but if it's even partly acrylic or cotton, it just won't work as well as wool.



Some might worry about wool feeling scratchy agains their heads or necks, but today it is easy to find wool with soft textures - wool that feels cotton-like or silk-like. While cashmere is nice, it is not necessary if you can't afford it. To me, peruvian alpaca has a very pleasant feel to it, and it is fairly affordable.



Even a gauze-thin wool hat can be surprisingly effective against the cold and wind while cycling. I made this one when it was still summer-ish, but it works well even in November.



2. Dense stitching



It is easier, less time consuming, and requires less wool to make a loosely-knit piece than a tightly-knit one. Chunky, loose stitching also "looks" warmer. But in actuality, it means that the knit is more porous - making it easier for the wind and the cold air to pierce right through it. If you want a hat or scarf that will really provide an impenetrable border against the frost and wind, look for one with dense stitching, and not necessarily in the chunkiest wool possible. It will be more functional.



Cycling in the cold is a special challenge for knitted hats and scarves, because they need to remain effective when you are moving against the wind at 10-20 miles per hour.I own lots of knitted accessories, but when the temperatures fell to below freezing last winter, I discovered that only a few of them truly kept me warm.Pieces that provide full coverage of the ears and throat, are 100% wool, and are densely knit, will be up for the job where others fall short.



{all hats and scarves pictured here made by me}

Orlingbury - Little Harrowden - Orlingbury

2 June . With Barry and Maureen. Around 7 miles - just under two and a half hours. Fine, warm, dry.



Mostly arable land - wheat, rapeseed and some pasture. No bull in the field with the label, though we saw cows and calves - none of which showed any interest in us.

There was a hare on the path ahead of us at one point, and then a fox in the middle of a field, quite unaware of us for a while. Both too distant to photograph.



A strange snippet about Orlingbury, and Badsaddle Wood

Life Goes On

(Photo: X-Ray showing my broken ankle. Diagnosis: fracture- ankle, medial malleolus, closed.)

One year ago today, I broke my ankle rock climbing.

In part, I started this little blog in order to force myself to write about it. But I've been struggling with what to say about it for a year now, and I'm afraid that struggle isn't over.

My accidenthappened on a Gunks climb called Insuhlation (5.9). I fell justafter the final crux roof. I pulled over the roof with no problems, but there was a wet hold above the roof that I suppose I failed to use well. Or maybe my foot popped, I'm not sure. Truthfully, I don't know exactly why I fell. I had my right hand on the semi-jug above the wet hold. I was looking around for pro; my last piece was a green Alien a few feet below the roof. And then I was off.

I recall with vivid clarity the sensation of falling. Time suddenly slowed to a crawl, and I saw my half ropesin a parabolic arcabove me as I flew back outward from the rock. It seemed as if I had a good long time in midair to consider that this might not end well. I remember thinking "this is it!" ...but I'm not sure what I had "it" in mind to be. I yelled out "falling," and then things sped up considerably. I flipped upside-down and then the rope came tight on the green Alien, which held, and I came to a stop, hanging in the air with my head where my feet should have been.

As I righted myself, I realized I was injured. I couldn't understand why I'd flipped over. The rope wasn't behind my leg. And I hadn't felt a thing. There was no impact at all that I had sensed. So why was my ankle tender and starting to swell? I asked my partner N to lower me to the ledge. The pair climbing next to us onObstacle Delusion retrieved my gear on rappel and filledus in on what had happened. "You flipped over when your ankle hit the rock," one of them said. So it seemed there was an impact, but in the adrenaline-pumped moment I hadn't felt it. At least itall made sense now, even if the explanation didn't jibe with what my mind had allowed me to experience.

Thinking it was just a sprain, I hobbled the whole way from the High Exposure access trail back to the steel bridge, refusing numerous offers of assistance from concerned strangers. The best and the worst of the Trapps in autumn were on display. People were kind and supportive, but there were far too many of them. At one point I stopped to rest in the Uberfall area and counted over thirty climbers in my immediate field of vision, all of them looking at me in a pitying way that made me very uncomfortable. N thought we shouldsummon the rangers, but I insisted that if I could evacuate myselfwe shouldn't initiate a rescue. I now recognize that this was a stupidmistake. I really don't think it made my ankle any worse, but if I'd listened to N, we would have had the benefit of the advice of first responders, and I would likely have been taken to a hospital for an x-ray right away instead of waiting 24 hoursand only thenfinding out the ankle was broken and required surgery. It also would have put much less pressure on N, who ended up having the sole responsibility of babying me all the way back to Brooklyn.

In the aftermath of the accidentI was overwhelmed with guilty feelings. The source of these feelings was hard to pin down. I felt guilty about inconveniencing my wife.She'd have to pick up the kids every day and do all the cooking for months to come. I also felt guilty that I'd made whatever climbing mistake I must have made to get into this mess. I blamed myself for the accident, although I had a hard time deciding what it was I'd done wrong. I also felt a lot of guilt about imposing my injury on N. I entertained totally unfounded fears that she'd never climb with me again, and that all my other climbing partners might desert me as well.

Amidst all this I wondered if I really was feeling most guilty about climbing in the first place. Was I taking pains to find fault with my climbing on that fateful day because I needed to avoid confronting something harder to deal with? Was my accident really a reminderthat even if you do everything right when you climb, even if you place gear liberally and it holds, you can still get hurt? Was it a sign that I should quit,that climbing is unacceptably dangerous? Certainly a number of people, from my doctor to my mother to my wife's colleagues, assumed that my broken ankle would be thewake-up callI needed to make me come to my senses and stop this climbing nonsense, as any responsible husband and fatherwould.

I did not want to quit. Although I didn't know how I'd feel getting out there on the rock again, I was sure, as I sat around recovering and gaining twenty pounds, that I would missclimbing terribly if I stopped doing it. But I didn't want to be a bad husband and father. I had to ask myself if climbing could be done reasonably, or whetherthe dangers were such that no amount of rock climbingcould be consideredsane.

I read numerous classics of mountaineering literature searching for the answer, to no avail.Many great mountaineers have wrestled with the question of why we are drawn to climbing, and whether the dangers are worth it. Some embracethe risk, declaring danger to beat the verycore of the climbing experience. Othersfocus instead onthe many other wonderful aspects of the sport-- the scenery, the adventure, the physical and mental challenge, theconnectionwith nature-- but throw up their hands at the death toll and ultimately leave the question of whether it is all worthwhile to a higher power.

Of course, these writers are considering a different sport than the one in which I participate. They are writing about climbing real mountains and pushing the very limits of the possible. They choose to face objective hazards that cannot be managed, such as altitude sickness, avalanches, and sudden deadly changes in the weather. And in order toexpand the boundaries of what can be climbed, they deliberately go without reasonable protection on climbs that are incredibly risky,forging ahead on blank, smoothrock facesand through rotten bands of ice. These writers would think nothing of the climbing I do in the Gunks on a two hundred foot cliff that has been fully explored, with every route to the top exhaustively indexed by its difficulty and protection rating. To them the risks taken by a weekend warrior likemehardly qualify as risks at all.

And yet there are risks in any climbing environment, no matter how tame that environment is. In the Gunks, for instance, there have been very few fatalities over the years, but less than fatal accidents occurratherfrequently. Lapses in judgment lead climbers to forget crucial steps in the climbing process. Theyrappel off the ends of their ropes, or drop their partners. Objective hazards exist: rocks fall down. And no matter how much difficulty and protection grades may sanitize a climb, it is still easy to wander off route, to miss a crucial gear placement,or otherwiseto find oneself in territory where a fall could be disastrous. Gear that seems solid may pull out; it is hard even for experienced climbers to dependably judge placements of climbing gear. And finally, as my accident demonstrates, even if the gear is solid you can get hurt in any fall.

It is often pointed out by climbers that many sports carry dangers, and that climbing is actually less dangerous thancommon daily activities like driving a car. This may be true, but we are not forced to choose a dangerous sport in which to participate. We don't have to choose climbing just because it isn't as crazy as BASE jumping. We can shun all sports involving danger if it is the right thing to do. And while driving a car may wellbe more dangerous than climbing, we live in a world in which we can't escape the car. We have no choice about it. Climbing is different. It is a luxury we can well afford to drop.

But I couldn't bear to drop it.After my accident I was desperate to find a rationale for continuing to climb, a way to go forward but feel I was being reasonable and safe about it.

I wish I could tell you that I figured out the answer to this problem. I wish I could say thatI developed a calculus to determine how much danger is acceptable. I wish I could offer you a climbing plan that is 100 percent risk-free, or tell you that I located the perfect spot on the climbing danger continuum at which adventure is maximized but life-threatening hazards are minimized. But obviously I did none of these things.

Instead I decided to wade back into climbingslowly and to take it easy, minimizing risk by minimizing difficulty. Even this simple plan was a difficult one for me to execute, because I like to challenge myself. But aside from a few lapses I mostly stuck with it, avoiding leading harderclimbs all year, being willing to follow other folks' desires and ambitions more than my own, and repeating a bunch of favorite climbs instead of always seeking out new ones.

At first, I found that my accident had wreaked havoc with my lead head. I was tentative on the lead, becoming paralyzed at crux momentsI never would have worried about in the past. On more than one occasion this year I fell or took a hang because I simply couldn't commit to the move atthe crucial moment of a climb. The irony of this situation wasn't lost on me-- before the accident I pretty much never fell while climbing, but afterward, while trying to go easy and safe, I found myself falling or hanging on gear with some frequency. This seemed like madness, and made me wonder what the hell I was doing out there at all.

But I'm happy to report that over time my head improved (although not completely). I lost a good bit of the weight I gained and I alsotried through the year to become a better technical climber with a better awareness of balance and footwork than I had in the past. I see increased proficiency as a path towards feeling confident enough to progress back up the grades in the future. At some point this year I gave up on having any big climbing achievements in . It has been a rebuilding year.I haven't led a single pitch of trad 5.9 all year, and I'm fine with that. I recently followed a few, and they felt laughably easy. I take that as a good sign, and I plan to put that good feeling in my pocket for the winter, work really hard in the gym through the cold months, and emerge in the spring with confidence thatI can soon begin leadingharder climbsagain, breaking back into 5.9 and maybe even 5.10. And I hopethat whenI doso the climbs willfeel secure, and not beyond my limits.

So I have continued to climb, and life goes on. I can't assure anyone that I have made the right decision. But I can promise I'm more careful than I used to be, with the unfortunate side effect that I'm also more tentative. I am more willing to back off, and I will be much slower about working up the grades, more conscious of my limits. On the whole I believe I'm moving in the right direction. And that's the best balance I thinkI can achieve.

Hog Heaven~Bike Week in Myrtle Beach

When Austin was about three years old, he was obsessed with Harley's. He could tell if there was a Harley around long before he could even see them. Meaning, he knew one by the sound alone. We'd be driving on the interstate and hear the roar of a bike coming up behind us and he'd shout out, That's a Harley! And he was always correct in his guess. I was, and still am, so impressed by that. The boy has good taste.



Imagine our surprise to land in Myrtle Beach and realize we coordinated our trip with Bike Week/Harley Davidson Bike Week. This has added such a fun dimension to our visit here. They are in the campground we are staying at. They are at the places we stop to visit. And they are on the road whenever we drive.




There is a Harley Davidson dealership right up the road, and each day we've passed by there are tons of bikes there to drool over.







We are in Hog Heaven! Can I show you my favorite?



I had no idea they made pink helmets. That is gonna be me someday, mark my words!



Living the life where we dream to be bikers in NC!